Thrift shopping is one of the best ways to build a wardrobe — better prices, unique pieces, and a lighter environmental footprint. But it comes with a problem that new-clothing shoppers rarely face: the care label might be faded, missing, in another language, or from a labeling era that predates the symbols we use today.
Here's how to figure out how to care for thrift finds, whatever state the label is in.
Why Thrift Labels Are Harder to Read
Thrift finds come with a few label challenges that new clothing doesn't:
- Faded or worn labels — years of washing can make text and symbols nearly illegible
- Cut labels — some previous owners remove labels to avoid irritation, leaving you nothing to go on
- Foreign labels — thrift stores receive donations from all over, and the label might be in French, German, Japanese, or a dozen other languages
- Vintage labels — garments from before the 1970s may have no symbols at all, just text instructions that use older terminology
- Mixed standards — a garment imported to the US from Europe may have both ISO metric temperatures and ASTM Fahrenheit ratings, or just one
International Label Systems
Most of the world uses the ISO 3758 system, which relies on graphical symbols and temperatures in Celsius. The US and Canada use ASTM D5489, which combines symbols with text and expresses temperature in Fahrenheit. If you find a garment with a label that uses dots instead of text temperatures, that's the ISO system: one dot means low heat, two dots medium, three dots high.
Common text you'll see on non-English labels and what it means:
- French: Lavage à la main = hand wash. Ne pas repasser = do not iron. Nettoyage à sec = dry clean. Ne pas essorer = do not wring.
- German: Handwäsche = hand wash. Nicht bügeln = do not iron. Chemisch reinigen = dry clean. Nicht schleudern = do not spin.
- Italian: Lavare a mano = hand wash. Non stirare = do not iron. Lavaggio a secco = dry clean.
- Spanish: Lavar a mano = hand wash. No planchar = do not iron. Limpiar en seco = dry clean.
- Japanese: Labels often combine symbols with Japanese text. The symbols follow ISO standards, so the graphics are the same — just read those and ignore the text if you can't read it.
Vintage Labels: Before the Symbols
Care labeling wasn't legally required in the United States until 1972 (FTC Care Labeling Rule). Garments made before that may have no label at all, or a label with text-only instructions using older terminology.
Common vintage label phrases:
- "Dry clean only" — same meaning as today; take it to a professional cleaner
- "Washable" — machine wash is safe, though no temperature is specified; use cold or warm
- "Hand washable" or "Wash by hand" — gentle hand wash in a basin; no machine
- "Do not wring or twist" — delicate fabric; squeeze gently and lay flat to dry
- "Iron damp" or "Press with damp cloth" — the fabric wrinkles badly when dry; iron with a damp cloth or steam
- "Drip dry" or "Drip-dry" — hang wet to dry; the fabric is prone to shrinkage in a dryer
- "Tumble dry" — dryer is safe; no heat guidance given, so use low
Pre-1972 garments from Europe may have labels in the local language with no symbols. Use the translation guide above or, if the label is illegible, default to the fabric rule below.
When the Label Is Gone or Unreadable
If there's no usable label, the fiber content is your best guide. Most fabrics follow predictable rules:
- 100% cotton — cold or warm machine wash, air dry or low heat tumble dry
- 100% wool — hand wash cold or dry clean; lay flat to dry; never tumble dry
- 100% silk — hand wash cold with mild detergent, or dry clean; never wring; lay flat or hang to dry; iron on low without steam
- 100% linen — machine wash warm, air dry; wrinkles are expected and iron well
- 100% polyester — machine wash warm, tumble dry low; avoid high heat
- Rayon / viscose — hand wash cold or dry clean; shrinks and distorts with heat and agitation
- Blends — follow the most delicate fiber in the blend
If you can't identify the fiber by label, do a burn test on a loose thread from an inconspicuous seam. Cotton and linen burn cleanly with a paper-like smell. Wool smells like burning hair and self-extinguishes. Synthetic fibers melt and bead. Silk burns slowly with a hair-like smell and crushes to a fine ash. This isn't foolproof but it narrows things down quickly.
A Practical Rule for Unknown Vintage Pieces
When in doubt about any garment with an unknown or illegible label:
- Hand wash in cold water with a small amount of mild detergent
- Gently press (don't wring) and roll in a towel to remove excess water
- Lay flat to dry in its natural shape
This approach is safe for almost every fiber type. It's slower than machine washing, but it won't ruin a piece you paid good money for.
The Faster Way
CareLabl reads care labels from any country and any era — including faded text labels, foreign-language labels, and mixed ISO/ASTM labels. Point your camera, get plain-English instructions. Try Pro free for 3 days, no credit card needed.